So we flipped through Triumph’s race catalog and found that most of the engine upgrades were made for the Daytona engine. So, step one? Swap the engines out! Check it out.

That’s as far as we got this week, but stay tuned for more updates! In the meantime, check out Triumph Boards for more Triumph fun.

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Everyone have a safe and fun 4th of July tomorrow. Be sure to log on to Ducatist when you get a chance to chime in your two cents!

Stay tuned for more updates.

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We also have some sad news to report. We did not know this at the time of testing, but found out that MotoMarin in San Rafael, CA shutdown just last week and is no longer in business. Our best wishes go out to the former employees.

Please pick up our 2011 Annual Issue due out soon to read the full article.

Check back here often for more updates or log on to KTM Boards for more KTM fun.

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However, on the way back from the shop, the left exhaust can blew up and started smoking. I have never encountered anything like this and I have a sneaking suspicion that it has something to do with the engine. Ugh, I guess we will cross that bridge when we get to it.

Today, I’ll be tackling something a bit less complicated. To repair and replace our stock 848 seat, the good folks over at Luimoto sent us another one of their Team Italia seat covers, this time with gold trim. I will save the rear cover for later and just install the front one today.

Since we told you all about Luimoto seat covers last time, I won’t bore you with them again. I do want to point out that their products are really of the highest quality. The cut is always spot on. There is enough material to cover your seat, no more, no less.

Be prepared to do some solid stapling though. If you are not that strong, be sure to have a buddy assist you. Trust me, you will be happy you did.

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Today, I mounted the Contour HD 1080p Camcorder onto my helmet and took the KTM RC8 out for a bit of light thrashing. I mostly want to test out the video and sound quality of the camcorder. Check out the video.

I am sure you noticed that the HD did not disappoint. The video came out clear and crisp. Although one YouTuber commented that we should upload the video in HD. Once I figure out how to do that using iMovie, I will!

The one thing I have a problem with is the wind noise. Now I know that this is something that every portable camcorder has, but I had only wished I guess. No worries though. As you may have noticed, I just turned down the volume when I edited the video, so it wasn’t that bad.

I will also be testing the camcorder out next time using the handlebar/ clip-on mount. It will be placed behind the windshield so that may get rid of the wind noise and bring out the v-twin rumble. Watch out for that soon.

Well that’s it for this time. Be sure to log on to KTM Boards for more information. Stay tuned.

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A few days later, I get a call to pick the bike up with no other potential problems. The rear subframe was a bit off but so slightly that it was not worth swapping out.

Unfortunately, after shooting the video below, I noticed a small pink puddle underneath the bike. Was Aunt Flo in town? Upon further inspection, the cover was leaking again. A quick call to Desmoto had them scheduled to reseal cover next week.

As you saw, I also took the time to replace the twisted (although still perfectly working) rearsets with the sweat ones sponsored by Acculign. Good thing I took these off before foolishly handing the old 848 off to Matt.

Alright guys, that’s it for this time. Be sure to check out Ducatist for more Ducati information. Stay tuned.

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However, there’s always a catch to good news these days. The previous owner did a horrible job of modifying and maintaining this Italian stallion. Check it out.

So after removing all the cheap ABS plastics, I saw that the engine was leaking and that someone had tried in vain to repair it by covering the whole damn thing with some sort of sealant. Not good.

Now we have to scrape off the dried goop, and check to make sure there is no additional damage before sealing it back up properly.

Be sure to check out Ducatist for more Ducati fun, and stay tuned for more updates!

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This piece is made of 100% true carbon. The layers of woven carbon fiber are clear coated with epoxy resins for an excellent finish. It is also very resistant against U.V. rays.

All Star Carbon parts come pre-drilled to OEM specifications and are ready to to be installed.

Be sure to check out their website for more tasty carbon fiber accessories. We can’t wait to see what else they send us! Stay tuned for more updates.

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The original gas tank had several large and serious dents, so it is being replaced. The first task is removing the rubber fitting for the fairings from the sides of the tank, and the tank’s bolt fittings from rear of the gas tank. The next step is removing the gas cap, and the petcock from the old gas tank, and then installing all of the hardware on the new gas tank.

The right side handle bar riser and handle bar were broken, so they need to be replaced. This task is achieved by removing the bolts holding the broken risers from the top of the triple camp. After installing the new handle bar riser, a new handle was installed and the brake reservoir and handle was attached. The throttle grip was the next part to be fitted, and the throttle cables were adjusted.

The instrument cluster had a broken bolt stand, after reattaching it with epoxy; it was reinstalled on the motorcycle. A quick test start ensured the motorcycle was in working order and closes out this episode of Ninja Restore.

Join us again in the future episodes of Ninja Restore when the cosmetics of the Ninja are refinished and the first test ride takes place.

Be sure to check out Ninja Boards for more Ninja fun!

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In this episode, we fix the right side of the engine where the clutch cover is located. The cable holder had snapped off and a large hole was ground through the cover.

After removing the clutch side cover, I proceeded to give the clutch and the gears behind it, a thorough inspection.

Luck was with us in this episode, as the clutch cable, the clutch plates, and the rest of the engine’s internals avoided sustaining any damage.

It was a quick task reassembling the clutch cover and cable, but care needs to be taken to avoid scratching the cover on the rear brake pedal.

Installing a new oil filter and refilling the engine with oil and the radiator with coolant are the last few details that need to be completed on the engine. The levels will have to be rechecked after starting the engine, and the radiator will need to have the air purged.

This is the end of the second episode of Ninja Restore, come back to watch the next episode when the right handle and controls get fixed. The motorcycle will then be reassembled and taken for a ride.

Check out Ninja Boards and take part in exciting Kawasaki related motorcycle discussions.

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After a crash or accident insurance claims will typically give you some money to have your motorcycle repaired at a shop. While it is usually best to have your major repairs done by a qualified professional, you can save money on labor cost by doing minor repairs yourself. You could then apply these savings towards upgraded parts, or new replacement safety gear.

In this debut episode of Ninja Restore, I will be fixing the left side of the engine where damage to the stator cover has damaged the pulsing coil inside. To remove the cover, I first had to remove the fairings, and drain the radiator. I took time beforehand to remove the gas tank and emissions box. I also drained the oil.

My first step in this video is disconnecting the cables from the wiring harness on the right side of the motorcycle. Next, I removed the bolts holding the chain cover and disconnected the radiator hoses.

It was then and easy task removing the cover. After removing the pulsing and generator coils, I installed them in a new cover. Putting everything back on the motorcycle was as simple as the reverse of removal.

Pitfalls abound if you did not take careful notes during removal. Several of the bolts hold clips to secure the cables. Other bolts need to be tightened before or after reconnecting the radiator hose.

That marks the end of this episode of Ninja Restore, future episodes will tackle the right side of the motorcycle, and then handlebars as well as the first ride, so check back often.

Pleas be sure to visit Ninja Boards to take part in an exciting Kawasaki motorcycle discussion board.

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These LED inserts not only enhance the look of your bike, but also give a brighter, safer and more noticeable light in all weather conditions.

The inserts are sold as a pair and can be installed on either the front or rear of your bike (please check their website here for the compatibility list). If you wish to install the units on both front and rear, please purchase two packets.

This kit is simple and easy to fit in minutes with no need for any modification to the existing wiring or housing. The existing molding remains on your bike and the LED unit replaces the inner chrome housing and bulb.

Check it out!

At $59.99, there really is nothing to stop you from upgrading the look of your stock turn signals. So head on over to Weiser-Motorrad and get yours today. They have applications for nearly all the motorcycles out there!

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With the baffles removed, the sound was pleasantly deeper but the bike seemed to lose a bit on the low end. We are going to ride it a few more miles before making the decision to connect a Tuneboy or Power Commander. However, I am thinking we are going to have to, due to the fact that it is a full system we installed, not just a slip on.

Stay tuned for more updates and be sure to check out Triumph Boards for more information.

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Yeah, sorry about that. We promise we will get to it as soon as the weather lightens up again. We will get the baffles off damn it!

Stay tuned for more updates and be sure to check out Triumph Boards for more information.

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If you guys are interested in purchasing these levers, Lex Racing is running group buys on each of the forums we both sponsor at the bottom of this page. Check it out!

Stay tuned for more updates!

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So, today we are going to begin installation of the RAC USD 50mm aftermarket forks the good folks at Marzocchi sent to us. Check out part one of the video.

These forks not only look pretty sweet in all black, they are made of aluminum, have rebound compression external adjusters and weigh only 8.6 kg.

These also come with some optional features, if you pay more, such as magnesium caps and dropouts, and titanium springs.

Well, that’s it for this time.

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The oil change. Perhaps the easiest of the DIY jobs, though not necessarily the quickest to perform.

It took some cranking to loosen up the Hypermotard’s oil filter, which had apparently been torqued in well beyond specification (at least, that’s my story). By the time I worked it free you could see I’d actually crushed part of the casing in the struggle.

We had an oil trap set conveniently beneath the bike so I just dropped the filter in, then went ahead and unscrewed the oil plug. It took about twenty minutes for the oil to stop dripping out, after which I put the plug back in, put some oil around the seal of the new filter, put it in, and then poured in a solid 3.5 liters of new oil.

The Hypermotard owner’s guide recommends you run the bike for a couple minutes and then pour in another quarter-liter of oil, so that’s just what we did. Now all we need to do with the old oil is find a pristine estuary or wildlife preserve– er, Jiffy Lube– and our work here is done.

Stay tuned for more updates and be sure to check out Ducatist for more information.

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It really wasn’t until 2006 or so when Suzuki came out with sportbikes that had a lower seat. Wow, the difference was night and day. I swore I was able to go at least twice as fast (which of course, meant twice as many accidents). Maybe it was a mental thing, because my confidence level shot up by beng able to plant my feet fully to the pavement. I’s not that I’m really short or anything (5’10″). I guess I’m just not as tall as the Europeans that most sportbikes were made for.

Anyways, since I’m the sole rider of the RC8, I thought that I needed to be comfortable pushing it, to give you some accurate real world opinions. So, my first step was to lower it a bit (no, I hate lowering links, and would never do that to any bike of mine).

Not so bad right? Pretty easy. I am glad that KTM understands that riding fast is all about molding the bike to the rider. They have gone to great lengths to make the RC8′s ergonomics accommodating. In addition to the rear subframe being adjustable, the clutch, brake, rear brake pedal and shifter are also adjustable. Those are next!

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“Because it’d be really easy for someone to, oh, I dunno, take a leak in your gas tank….” (Ahahahaha! -Ed)

Turns out he was referring to the single greatest downside of the Daytona’s LighTech quick-release gas cap: zero security. Because it doesn’t require a key, all it would take is one, bored vandal with a handful of pennies to give me an afternoon of headache, heartache and probably wallet-ache, too. And a handful of pennies isn’t
even very creative – a bottle of sodium silicate, for instance, would effectively (and invisibly) turn the engine into a useless block of scrap metal.

That said, I’ve been using the LighTech gas cap for over a month now and have encountered no other downsides. Its primary purpose, to permit super-quick refuel times on the race track, is equally suited to the average Chevron station, where I no longer even bother getting off the bike to gas up. I’ve even gotten a bit spoiled: on other motorcycles, on more than one occasion, I’ve already caught myself
staring blankly at the key slot on the gas cap, thinking, “What a bloody inconvenience….”

Made from machined aluminum billet, the LighTech is a nice shade of grey that complements the Gilles rearsets and Remus exhaust, too.

Definitely not for your average commuter motorcycle (which the Daytona isn’t!), but if security isn’t a concern, the quick-release gas cap is an easy-to-install time-saver that I highly recommend. It won’t break the bank (MSRP is $129.95), your concentration… or your key.

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Currently, the Daytona is running the Beringer calipers, and a pair of Helibar clip ons. The Street Triple now has the stock Daytona front calipers, and has gone back to handlebars by the way of Rizoma. For a full spec sheet, please check out their respective sections under Staff Bikes.

We believe that there truly are too many factors when comparing motorcycles. Try as they may, many magazines still attempt to use technical jargon to confuse the readers in an attempt to justify one choice over another.

We say the hell with it. We will pit any bike against another, and honestly, it really boils down to personal preference. Making these shoot out videos and articles are fun for us. Hope some of you enjoy them. We will improve each time we do it. Promise!

Stay tuned for more updates and be sure to check out Triumph Boards for more information.

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Thinking to spare my unprotected neck, I hunkered all the way down beneath the Daytona’s windscreen, which helped my neck, sure, but also shot the speedometer up a couple miles an hour for pretty obvious reasons.

Completely obvious or not, I sat straight up while keeping the throttle steady and sure enough the bike shed speed. I hunkered down. The bike sped up. I sat up. The bike slowed down. I hunkered back down. I sat back up. The people in the car beside me stared, completely bewildered. I pretended I had a crick in my back.

Fact: motorcycles get awesome mileage.
Hypothesis: aerodynamic motorcycles get even better mileage.
Test: duck into a crouch while doing 80mph.
Result: speed increases.
Conclusion: aerodynamic motorcycles get even better mileage.

Okay, so I didn’t do well in chemistry. Or biology. Physics. What class taught the scientific method again? (the Scientific Method can be applied to any of the sciences: social, behavioral, natural, related, natural, applied, etc. -Ed)

But I can jump to obvious conclusions, and today’s obvious conclusion is that the Daytona 675′s double-bubble windscreen offers an excellent boost to its top-end speed, raising the ceiling on the bike’s higher gears. I did some extra math and figured that if I only ever ride on a quarter tank of gas, get rid of the front rotors, strip all that extra paint off and only wear boxers, I’ll be able to go even faster. When the weather gets warmer. In the meantime, it’s me and my Zero G.

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On the way, I hit a mile-long patch of what I can only call a “typical Californian highway,” a shamelessly shoddy stretch of road that had me taking shot after shot to the tailbone until I finally settled on standing up out of the seat. That bad! You won’t hear many complaints about the Ohlins TTX racing suspension series, but crikey, I was crosseyed by the end of it. That same racing technology that glues you to the asphalt, translating every nuance of road surface into rider feedback so you can go fearlessly roaring into corners, hitting apex after apex and accomplishing impossible track times… well, it’s kind of a pain in the butt.

Don’t get me wrong: I’m not here to forswear the Ohlins monoshock in favor of other, lesser (dare we say, OEM) systems. Indeed, all that hammering has given me a kind of unnatural confidence in the Daytona’s ability to keep the rubber on the road.

It has, however, given me huge incentive to become a more proactive manager of the TTX racing suspension’s damping profile. Take today’s ride out to Mount Diablo, for instance. I’ll be ratcheting down the preload to a much softer setting. Hopefully, when I get home this evening, I’ll be able to sit down without the aid of an ice pack!

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Now, this rearset is a solid piece of engineering – it’s half the fun of owning a bike in the first place. The manufacturer, a Luxembourg-based tooling company called Gilles Tooling, has crafted an aesthetic and technical wonder with these things and they perform great. Fully adjustable, custom made for the Daytona (and a variety of other bikes), knurled foot pegs, anodized, something in the neighborhood of 25 percent lighter than stock rearsets, potentially homicidal heel guards, no modifications needed.

The parts are made from CNC (computer numeric control)-milled aluminum billet, very sturdy and resistant to corrosion.

Why that carbon fiber heel guard came loose is anyone’s guess. My thinking is the rearset took a good knock, somewhere along the line, and that’s when the first bolt disappeared. Ever since, the heel guard began working itself lower and lower, biding its time for the day when it put its evil plan into action– okay, you get the point. We reinstalled the sucker with enough Loctite to stick a bowling ball to the ceiling and have had no problems after another weekend of heavy riding.

Whether you go with Gilles (retail is about $500), keep your stock rearsets or go with another company, please take to heart: your rearsets need a little love, every once in awhile.

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If you can recall from the last video, you could remember that we bought a new throttle grip to “fix” the broken throttle, with inconclusive results as it was the throttle itself that was broken. Also as promised, we, the staff, at IPM are slowly beginning to lessen focus on the vehicle’s performance and more on the scooter’s cosmetics. We recently sourced a red Aprilia Racing Water Cooler Grille to substitute the bland OEM gray grille.

We rationalized that the bar ends were made not to rub directly against the throttle grip itself, giving the grip more leeway to move smoothly.

However, the new water cooler grille was installed successfully, and it looks great! Tune in next time for more cosmetic upgrades! Meanwhile, go to Aprilia Boards for the latest in Aprilia information.

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While the strain on the wrists isn’t altogether relieved by the TracStars, they significantly reduce tension by adding a full 1.6″+ on the damper end and 3/8″+ over the forks. When you’re used to grinding metacarpals just to hold onto the Daytona’s OEM grips, an extra inch of freedom feels like a godsend.

If you’re the kind of rider who’d like to trust their clipons not to warp or contort mid-endo – or, heaven forbid, after a drop – rest assured that these babies are tough enough to handle some hard living (we won’t vouch for the rest of your ride).

HeliBar TracStars are precision-engineered from extruded aluminum-alloy billet; they’re strong, resistant to corrosion and light. The downside to all this glowing praise, of course, is that you pay for what you get, even if what you get, seems really small compared to all the other things you could have spent those couple of hundred dollars on. It really boils down to personal comfort (and maybe whether or not your insurance covers carpal-tunnel syndrome).

The TracStars are direct replacements for OEM parts, so fortunately for us, they took no time to install (see previous posts). Stock cables, reservoir mounts and control housings fit on exactly the same as they did before – but now, you’re not begging for a break after a 30-minute ride. Sure, there are those out there who’ll wonder how it takes 30 minutes to go ANYWHERE on the Daytona. And to that, I can only say, bug off!

Until we get that check-engine light to cut off, it’s Grandpa Harrison time over on 580 Northbound. “What’s that, you whippersnappers? Oh! Yes, my arthritic old wrists feel fine….”

Stay tuned for more updates, and always, be sure to check out Triumph Boards.

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After picking up the motorcycle at, Scuderia West, we headed out on the highway for some open road action on our way to the sweepers in the nearby hills.

Check out my video, as well as the video by Andrew, for some interesting high-speed footage and our initial thoughts and opinions on how the two motorcycles compare.

Looks like we almost killed Michelle there as she was strying to get some shots of the two bikes. As you saw, I chose the Shiver over the Street Triple.

Also, keep a look out for our full opinions and some revealing insights in a future print edition of Inline Performance Magazine. There, I will defend my choice of the Aprilia Shiver over the highly modified Triumph Street Triple.

Stay tuned.

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Also note how I completely call the heel guard from our Gilles rearset, “this… carbon-fiber… thingy….” I was still pretty shook up. Fortunately, we were able to cut out the part of the video where I have a minor nervous break down and started drooling on myself.

Really, though. I’d like to take a moment to say that the pre-ride check is important and should be thoroughly conducted every time you ride. In my case, if I’d seen that the left heel guard had come loose before getting on the road, I’d have fixed it immediately and it wouldn’t have jammed my shifter in the middle of the Bay Bridge.

They teach “T-CLOCS” in MSF courses and frankly, it’s as good a guideline for the pre-ride check as any. Tires and wheels, Controls, Lights and electronics, Oil and fluids, Chassis and suspension, and Sidestand. If you’ve ever found a screw embedded in your tire or a mysterious, green liquid accumulating beneath your radiator, you know what I’m talking about.

Regarding the Daytona’s check-engine light woes, I’ve been keeping updates on TriumphBoards. The second I figure it out, you’ll be the first to know! Stay tuned.

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Right away, the Aprilia Shiver makes herself known with a big frame that suits a taller rider very comfortably. For a naked sportbike, she is noticeably jaunty, baring her 750cc V-twin and angular 2-in-1 exhaust for all the world to see.

The Shiver does perform very, very nicely, though her ride-by-wire throttle introduces a few idiosyncrasies in the controls, which can take getting used to. However, it was fun toggling between the bike’s Touring, Rain and Sport modes, which deliver markedly different acceleration profiles and adapt the Shiver’s overall personality to a wider range of riding conditions than the single-purposed Triumph Street Triple which we pitted her against. Apparently, the Shiver’s electronic throttle control also adjusts valve aperture based on your gear selection, engine speed, throttle grip position and movement speed, temperature and (mountain climbers take note) atmospheric pressure… if the Shiver played Blackjack, I’m pretty sure she’d count cards, too.

As one road tester described, “The Shiver’s V-twin delivers a wonderfully raspy and very Italianate song….” Well, unfortunately I couldn’t quite hear that song over the Street Triple’s trademark triple burble, and the roar of the twin Remus exhausts, but I’m assuming the writer was referring to the Shiver’s nonetheless throaty purr.

Because of her jaunty measurements – more trail, more rake than the Street Triple – the Shiver handles more smoothly, even despite a 750cc V2 setup that ought to have her leaping out of the gate. Instead, it’s the Street Triple and its 675cc 3-cylinder inline that’s rearin’ to go. Is it because the Shiver is a full 50lbs heavier? Or does that ride-by-wire throttle actually read your mind?

In the end, my vote goes to the Triumph Street Triple as the better naked sportbike, despite its aggressive, hypersensitive throttle and unfortunate lack of concern for rider comfort. Adds to the streetfighter allure, I say.

The Shiver, meanwhile, is plainly too competent for its own good.

Be sure to look for the full article in one of our future print issues. In the meantime, for more Triumph and Aprilia fun be sure to check out, Triumph Boards and Aprilia Boards.

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First, we attached the side fairings – first the left, then the right – joining them beneath the bike, with the triangle brace inserted in front of the radiator before bolting everything together.

We put the headlamps back into the front fairing, bolted them in, then bolted the headlamp/fairing assembly to the bike’s hard points and side fairings. Et voila! Then we turned the electronics on (come to think, you should do this before bolting everything together) and, fortunately, everything worked just fine.

Remember: Give the steering a full turn in either direction, making sure nothing catches on anything you don’t want it to catch on. In our case, we found our Ohlins damper (mounted beneath the lower triple clamp) jammed very nicely into the lower lip of the headlamp/fairing assembly when the handlebars were turned to the right. “Ungood,” as my MSF instructor used to say. We put another spacer on the Ohlins bolt and solved the problem nicely. See the Ohlins damper installation video for more.

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Along with revised suspension and graphics, the power and torque upgrades are credentials for the new 690 Duke’s ‘R’ tag. These adjustments underline the fact that this machine is a serious middleweight animal.

Like the standard 690 Duke on which the R-model is based, the riding position is upright and comfortable. A slight lean to the bars sets you into an ‘attack’ riding position where either shoulder can be dipped into a corner. This is enough to make light work of the fantastic back roads around the Bay Area.

A big factor behind the Duke 690 R’s accomplished ride is its revised suspension. The WP forks have slightly softer springs than on previous models, but revised damping rates give them a supple action that provides all-telling feedback. The rear shock, meanwhile, retains the spring from the 654cc Duke.

KTM’s prowess at building strong, single-cylinder engines also comes to the fore with the Duke 690 R’s new motor. A 7bhp power boost for a 600cc supersport would be considered great, on a single, it’s close to incredible.

Careful development of fuelling and ignition maps led KTM to fitting a pre-determined three-way power-selector switch (hidden but accessible through the frame tubes). In ‘Standard’ mode the engine is so tractable in the lower revs it makes town work lurch-free. But tease the tach past 4500rpm and the engine snaps forward and keeps driving until just short of the 8000rpm redline. In ‘sport’ mode the KTM offers a more aggressive power delivery that gives the full snappy terrier effect. The third mode position, incidentally, is effectively a fun dampener, for wet or slippery conditions or novice riders.

Too bad we don’t have access to our old KTM 620 staffer, or else the shoot out would have been extraordinary! Stay tuned guys!

THE SPECIFICATIONS*
KTM 690 Duke R
Engine: Liquid-cooled 690cc single cylinder
Power (claimed): 71.4bhp
Torque (claimed): 50ftlb
Weight: 148kg (dry)
Seat height: 865mm
Fuel capacity: 13.5 liters
* Pre-production figures, subject to confirmation.

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