Last week, we replaced the sprockets on our Project Corona Suzuki GSX-R 600 with stronger (and better looking) versions from Vortex.

The last thing we wanted to do was to spoil our shiny new sprockets by reinstalling the old, worn out chain that was on the bike when we first tore it apart. Not only would the old chain look bad with all the bike’s other shiny new parts, but using an over-worn old chain with new sprockets can increase wear and tear on the teeth, reducing their lifespan. Chains are cheap, too, and the thought of one breaking at high speed alone is enough to justify replacement.

We went with a new chain from RK. Normally, the new chain has to be “broken” to length, either using a special chain breaker tool or an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel in a pinch. (Check out our post on replacing the chain on Project XT 600 if you want to see how to break a chain) Luckily for us, though, our chain happened to be the right length right out of the box, so we were able to skip that step.

With the chain set to the proper length, the next step was to use the included master link to connect the two ends of the chain. The master link can only be assembled properly using a chain tool that squeezes the master link together. We highly recommend buying the proper tool at your local motorcycle store (they’re not expensive) rather than trying to squeeze the master link together using channel lock or vice grip pliers. As mentioned earlier, things can get ugly fast if the chain were to come apart at high speed.

We still need to tension the chain, but since we’re still working on the bike, we just estimated the tension and gently tightened the rear axle. Once we know for sure that we won’t need to pull the wheel off again, we’ll set the tension properly and lock the rear axle nut in place using a cotter pin.

That’s it for this time, but keep it tuned here as we keep on making progress toward getting Project Corona back on the road.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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As those astute readers who’ve been following project XT-600 have noticed, we’ve been a little off our game when it comes to maintenance, especially because the bike often sees regular duty commuting into San Francisco.

But we’ve finally gotten around to changing the oil and the filter, and while it’s a job that’s made marginally more complicated because of the XT’s dry sump oiling system, it’s still a job that the home mechanic can easily complete in his or her driveway.

The first step was to drain the oil from the sump, just like a usual oil change. But you’ll quickly notice that nowhere near the bike’s four-quart oil capacity drains out from the sump. That’s because most of the engine’s oil is actually stored in the oil tank, located on the left side of the seat under the bodywork. Remove the drain plug from the oil tank, and let the remainder of the oil flow out.

You should always change the oil filter at the same time you change the bike’s oil, but we took exception to our own rule here because the filter wasn’t available locally. But since the old bike’s oil was so gross and dirty, the plan is to run the bike around for a week or so with the new clean oil, and then change the oil again along with the filter to flush the engine out.

The most important part of an oil change is, of course, refilling the oil. On a dry sump system like the XT’s, the step is especially important. Fill the oil tank up to the “full” mark on the dipstick, and then start the bike and let in run for ten seconds or so. Turn the bike off, and then recheck the oil tank and add oil as necessary. Repeat this procedure until the oil level in the tank no longer drops, and then let the bike warm up and adjust to oil level, if necessary, to the “full” mark on the dipstick.

Take it for a ride, double check for leaks, and call it a job well done.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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Here at Inline Performance Magazine, we find every excuse we can to upgrade a stock part to a higher performance aftermarket version. Such was the case with our Project Corona GSX-R 600 Suzuki.

Since we were already planning on replacing the knackered chain that came with the bike, we opted to replace the well-worn sprockets as well. While we could have used another set of OEM sprockets, we opted to upgrade to a stronger and better looking set from Vortex.

At the drive sprocket end, we stuck with the same tooth count, but in the back we went for a one-tooth increase for a small boost in bottom end grunt at the expense of a little bit of top speed. Since the bike’s top speed is at least double the legal limit anywhere in the vicinity anyway, it’s a tradeoff well worth making.

There’s nothing particularly hard about the changing the sprockets, but as the video shows, its all about having the right tool for the job. An air-powered impact gun would have made the task infinitely easier, but even with hand tools things went relatively smoothly.

Do make sure that you use allen sockets rather than the cheaper keys often found in entry-level toolkits, especially when taking off the allen bolt that holds the speed sensor wheel to the transmission’s output shaft, because stripping the bolts head is a nightmare you don’t want to live. Similarly, make sure to put the bike in gear and securely hold it in place while breaking loose the large nut that holds the drive sprocket onto the output shaft.

Also take car to make sure all the spacers and shims are in the proper spaces when installing the rear axle, or you’re chain won’t line up with the sprocket properly.

The Vortex sprockets fit perfectly, the machine work on both the nickel-plated front sprocket and aluminum rear was clean and tidy, and there were no blemishes in either of the part’s surfaces. The aluminum rear sprocket weighs slightly more than the original Suzuki part, but makes up for it with better looks and more strength—and unless you’re a seriously talented rider, you’ll never feel the few extra grams anyway.

That’s it for this time, but keep clicking back to watch the progress as we get Project Corona back on the road where it belongs.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price until supplies last.

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Welcome to another update on Project Corona. We previously finished installing the engine in the new frame, finished installing a new radiator, and refitted the ceramic-coated headers. In this video, we will be reinstalling the air box with a new K&N 1,000,000 mile lifetime guaranteed washable high flow air filter.

We are starting the installation by cleaning the air box with a spray cleaner and removing the old dust and grime. After installing the air filter, we applied the indicator sticker on the inside of the air box to alert any future users that the air filter is cleanable, and does not need to be replaced.

When re-installing the air box, we took time to align the clamps for the air intake trumpets to allow ourselves easy access to the tightening screws. We also located the tubing and electrical wiring that need to be plugged into the air box before placing the air box, then ensuring they remained connected and snug after the final placement and tightening of the air box.

Well, that is the end of this video, but not the end of Project Corona.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price until supplies last.

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Hi guys, Paul here. Welcome to another quick Project Corona update by Inline Performance Magazine. In our last update we spray-coated the headers in ceramic paint. It has finished drying and curing and it is now time to install the headers on the motorcycle.

To avoid scratches in the new coating, we first removed the mounting brackets for the new radiator that Graham previously installed. When installing the exhaust headers it is easiest to start at the rear of the motorcycle and gently line up the mounts before pressing the headers into the openings on the engine.

After tightening the bolts, we installed the Remus exhaust slip-on to give a preview of the final look. We won’t permanently install it until we have a new set of gaskets; and it will be easier to avoid scratching or denting it, while simultaneously providing us with more room to maneuver, while we finish reassembling the rest of the rear end of the motorcycle.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price until supplies last.

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