Hello everyone, we have a new update for Project Corona. Having already completed a frame swap including suspension, and installed new tires, the next aspect of the restoration is repairing the damaged cowling and fairing pieces.

In this episode, we will be mending the front cowl fairing. This process will involve several steps and to being We will be using a two-part plastic epoxy to seal the cracks in the fairing. We will also be removing the scratched and damaged stickers and decals now to allow more freedom in the future for sanding, painting, or other modifications we may decide to undertake.

The epoxy we used has a working time of around 5 minutes, sets in 15, and fully cures in 24 hours. After thoroughly mixing equal parts of the epoxy we applied it to the cracks in the fairing. We pried apart the the edges to ensure the epoxy reached the inside third dimension of the crack as well as spreading it on the exterior and interior surfaces of the cowling. We then smoothed the epoxy and wiped up as much extra as possible before allowing the epoxy to fully cure. After it cures we plan on lightly sanding the mended areas to have the smoothest surfaces possible.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of our new Winter/ Spring 2012 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE. Don’t worry, shipping is free!

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Hello, in this update of Project Corona we will be replacing the old sub-frame with an original stock subframe that has not been polished, or been in a wreck. The new subframe also comes pre-installed with an intact undertray as we have no need for the cut out with the Remus exhaust mounted on the side instead of under-tail.

The seat lock will have to be transferred over to keep the same key. This is accomplished by unhooking the cable to the seat lock, pulling off the retaining tab and sliding the lock cylinder out of the under-fairing tray toward the outside of the motorcycle. Next, the seat latch can be unbolted and easily installed on the new subframe. After sliding the lock cylinder into place and attaching the retaining tab, the seat latch cable can be reinstalled on both ends. You may need to toggle the switch and lock to ensure the cable is fully seated in the lever and the seat lock functions properly.

The old subframe is removed by loosening and removing the four bolt attaching to the main frame, and removing the bolts for the exhaust hanger. After installing the new subframe, we will then be ready to install the electrical components including the wiring harness, battery, etc., before completing it with the tail light and marker assemblies, rear fairing, and finally, the seat!

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Hey what’s going on guys? Today we finally got to work on Project Corona again. As you may remember, the steering bracket that came with our bike initially was horribly polished and cracked.

For a bike of this age, parts are difficult to come back. Especially OEM ones. So we took a chance with an aftermarket unit from overseas. This is how it arrived.

I guess they couldn’t read Fragile on every side of the box. Anyways, the item came painted in black, but was flaking off. Well, you saw the box. But it bolted up just fine, and even fit the front fairing perfectly.

Not too shabby for under $70! That’s it for today. Stay tuned for more updates.

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Hey what’s going on guys? I just thought that I’d give you guys a sneak peek at the next modification to Project Corona. I was at the Max Moto warehouse the other day and decided to pick up a rear brake line to match the fronts we got earlier in the year (we haven’t installed them yet).

They were cool enough to let me watch them make the line after I picked out the colors. I thought I’d stick with the Project Corona theme and get yellow lines with black Banjo fittings. I guess I could have gone with some combination of purple as well.

Every Melvin brake line is manufactured with stainless steel braided hoses, Dupont teflon inner core, and adjustable swivel Banjo fittings. There are a possible 55 different color and fitting combinations and are all tested according to FMV SS106 standards.

Since 1978, Melvin has been the top choice for custom performance brake lines. Assembled in the USA, with precision German parts and equipment, Melvin applies the expertise gathered from world class motor sport competition in the design, engineering and testing of every Melvin brake hose and fitting.

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Hi guys, Paul here. Today’s post is brought to you by the folks over at Asset Tracking dot Net. They claim to offer the best asset tracking device available on the market today. The call it the prime AT from Ninja Tracking Systems, and it will track valuable items to within centimeters, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, literally anywhere in the world.

Welcome to another update on Project Corona from Inline Performance Magazine. In this update, we will be securing the Remus exhaust can using a new exhaust hanger.

After finishing the exhaust headers with ceramic paint, we temporarily placed the Remus exhaust can on the end without attaching it permanently. We were now able to remedy that precarious situation.

First, we open the packaging that holds our new exhaust hanger, and then simply install it on the motorcycle using some bolts. Next, the wrap for the exhaust can needed to be fitted with the rubber fitting, and then it was installed as well. Interference with the Remus exhaust can determined where we could position the fittings, but they look great anywhere.

That is all for this time on Project Corona.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price until supplies last.

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Last week, we replaced the sprockets on our Project Corona Suzuki GSX-R 600 with stronger (and better looking) versions from Vortex.

The last thing we wanted to do was to spoil our shiny new sprockets by reinstalling the old, worn out chain that was on the bike when we first tore it apart. Not only would the old chain look bad with all the bike’s other shiny new parts, but using an over-worn old chain with new sprockets can increase wear and tear on the teeth, reducing their lifespan. Chains are cheap, too, and the thought of one breaking at high speed alone is enough to justify replacement.

We went with a new chain from RK. Normally, the new chain has to be “broken” to length, either using a special chain breaker tool or an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel in a pinch. (Check out our post on replacing the chain on Project XT 600 if you want to see how to break a chain) Luckily for us, though, our chain happened to be the right length right out of the box, so we were able to skip that step.

With the chain set to the proper length, the next step was to use the included master link to connect the two ends of the chain. The master link can only be assembled properly using a chain tool that squeezes the master link together. We highly recommend buying the proper tool at your local motorcycle store (they’re not expensive) rather than trying to squeeze the master link together using channel lock or vice grip pliers. As mentioned earlier, things can get ugly fast if the chain were to come apart at high speed.

We still need to tension the chain, but since we’re still working on the bike, we just estimated the tension and gently tightened the rear axle. Once we know for sure that we won’t need to pull the wheel off again, we’ll set the tension properly and lock the rear axle nut in place using a cotter pin.

That’s it for this time, but keep it tuned here as we keep on making progress toward getting Project Corona back on the road.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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As those astute readers who’ve been following project XT-600 have noticed, we’ve been a little off our game when it comes to maintenance, especially because the bike often sees regular duty commuting into San Francisco.

But we’ve finally gotten around to changing the oil and the filter, and while it’s a job that’s made marginally more complicated because of the XT’s dry sump oiling system, it’s still a job that the home mechanic can easily complete in his or her driveway.

The first step was to drain the oil from the sump, just like a usual oil change. But you’ll quickly notice that nowhere near the bike’s four-quart oil capacity drains out from the sump. That’s because most of the engine’s oil is actually stored in the oil tank, located on the left side of the seat under the bodywork. Remove the drain plug from the oil tank, and let the remainder of the oil flow out.

You should always change the oil filter at the same time you change the bike’s oil, but we took exception to our own rule here because the filter wasn’t available locally. But since the old bike’s oil was so gross and dirty, the plan is to run the bike around for a week or so with the new clean oil, and then change the oil again along with the filter to flush the engine out.

The most important part of an oil change is, of course, refilling the oil. On a dry sump system like the XT’s, the step is especially important. Fill the oil tank up to the “full” mark on the dipstick, and then start the bike and let in run for ten seconds or so. Turn the bike off, and then recheck the oil tank and add oil as necessary. Repeat this procedure until the oil level in the tank no longer drops, and then let the bike warm up and adjust to oil level, if necessary, to the “full” mark on the dipstick.

Take it for a ride, double check for leaks, and call it a job well done.

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Here at Inline Performance Magazine, we find every excuse we can to upgrade a stock part to a higher performance aftermarket version. Such was the case with our Project Corona GSX-R 600 Suzuki.

Since we were already planning on replacing the knackered chain that came with the bike, we opted to replace the well-worn sprockets as well. While we could have used another set of OEM sprockets, we opted to upgrade to a stronger and better looking set from Vortex.

At the drive sprocket end, we stuck with the same tooth count, but in the back we went for a one-tooth increase for a small boost in bottom end grunt at the expense of a little bit of top speed. Since the bike’s top speed is at least double the legal limit anywhere in the vicinity anyway, it’s a tradeoff well worth making.

There’s nothing particularly hard about the changing the sprockets, but as the video shows, its all about having the right tool for the job. An air-powered impact gun would have made the task infinitely easier, but even with hand tools things went relatively smoothly.

Do make sure that you use allen sockets rather than the cheaper keys often found in entry-level toolkits, especially when taking off the allen bolt that holds the speed sensor wheel to the transmission’s output shaft, because stripping the bolts head is a nightmare you don’t want to live. Similarly, make sure to put the bike in gear and securely hold it in place while breaking loose the large nut that holds the drive sprocket onto the output shaft.

Also take car to make sure all the spacers and shims are in the proper spaces when installing the rear axle, or you’re chain won’t line up with the sprocket properly.

The Vortex sprockets fit perfectly, the machine work on both the nickel-plated front sprocket and aluminum rear was clean and tidy, and there were no blemishes in either of the part’s surfaces. The aluminum rear sprocket weighs slightly more than the original Suzuki part, but makes up for it with better looks and more strength—and unless you’re a seriously talented rider, you’ll never feel the few extra grams anyway.

That’s it for this time, but keep clicking back to watch the progress as we get Project Corona back on the road where it belongs.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price until supplies last.

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Welcome to another update on Project Corona. We previously finished installing the engine in the new frame, finished installing a new radiator, and refitted the ceramic-coated headers. In this video, we will be reinstalling the air box with a new K&N 1,000,000 mile lifetime guaranteed washable high flow air filter.

We are starting the installation by cleaning the air box with a spray cleaner and removing the old dust and grime. After installing the air filter, we applied the indicator sticker on the inside of the air box to alert any future users that the air filter is cleanable, and does not need to be replaced.

When re-installing the air box, we took time to align the clamps for the air intake trumpets to allow ourselves easy access to the tightening screws. We also located the tubing and electrical wiring that need to be plugged into the air box before placing the air box, then ensuring they remained connected and snug after the final placement and tightening of the air box.

Well, that is the end of this video, but not the end of Project Corona.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price until supplies last.

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Hi guys, Paul here. Welcome to another quick Project Corona update by Inline Performance Magazine. In our last update we spray-coated the headers in ceramic paint. It has finished drying and curing and it is now time to install the headers on the motorcycle.

To avoid scratches in the new coating, we first removed the mounting brackets for the new radiator that Graham previously installed. When installing the exhaust headers it is easiest to start at the rear of the motorcycle and gently line up the mounts before pressing the headers into the openings on the engine.

After tightening the bolts, we installed the Remus exhaust slip-on to give a preview of the final look. We won’t permanently install it until we have a new set of gaskets; and it will be easier to avoid scratching or denting it, while simultaneously providing us with more room to maneuver, while we finish reassembling the rest of the rear end of the motorcycle.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price until supplies last.

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Of all the bikes in the Inline Performance Magazine garage, it’s our trusty old project XT-600 Yamaha that actually spends the most time on the road doing the daily commute. While the Yamaha—which I often describe as “a big street-legal dirt bike’—would be more at home tearing up the trails than doing the daily California commute, the Yamaha isn’t as out of it’s element as you might think.

The motorcycle’s upright position is much more comfortable than being hunched over a sport bike, and also gives the rider better visibility in city traffic. Even better, at well under 400 pounds, the XT-600 feels quite light and nimble, able to pick it’s way through the gridlock. Of course, sixty miles per gallon doesn’t hurt either.

But one thing kept the old Yamaha from being an ideal commute bike—a lack of storage space. The only option for carrying anything was to bring a backpack or cargo pants.

What should you do when you need to add cargo capacity to a motorcycle? After considering much more expensive options, like soft saddle bags or hard panniers, I opted to go for a low-buck solution more appropriate for a 25-year-old motorcycle: A cargo net.

Mojo Town in San Rafael, CA, hooked us up with a motorcycle-specific cargo net, complete with rubber-coated hooks to protect the bike’s paintwork. Installing the net was easy too, we just stretched it over the gas tank, hooking it under the edges of the tank. Cargo nets are available on the web and pretty much any motorcycle shop, you can usually chose from a selection of colors as well.

Moving to the back of the bike, we could have simple gone for another cargo net, but we were looking for something with a little more flexibility. Again keeping with the “cheap is good” philosophy, we opted for two sets of nylon straps with backpack-style plastic clips. We got ours at our local athletic store for less than ten dollars. Installing the straps was just as easy as the cargo net—we just tied the straps to the frame.

Out on the road, both our additions work great. The cargo net works great to hold pretty much anything small or odd-shaped you can imagine. Even Subway sandwiches and cold, slippery soda bottles were held tightly in place with no chance of falling off. Similarly effective were the straps on the back of the seat. While they won’t hold small or odd-shaped items like the cargo net will, larger items, like backpacks, duffle bags, or even a tent or sleeping bag can all be strapped onboard.

If you’re looking for something a little more secure, there are lots of motorcycle-specific storage options out there, from hard aluminum panniers, leather saddlebags, or even painted, plastic sport bike “luggage.” But even if you chose a cheap and simple solution, having real cargo capacity will make you rethink when and how you use your motorcycle.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price until supplies last.

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Hello IPM fans, this is Paul with another intriguing update on Project Corona.

When we first got the Corona GSX-R600, the lower fairing was smashed, broken, and melted to the exhaust header. In this video, we will be working on removing the melted plastic from the header to prevent the noxious fumes and give the motorcycle a cleaner appearance.

We are using a wire brush attached to a drill to remove the melted plastic. At the same time, we will also be using the wire brush to take off the surface rust that has started to appear.

To prevent further corrosion of the exhaust headers we will then coat them in a spray-on colored coating with ceramic-based paint. This coating will prevent rust from forming on the brushed areas and contain some of the heat from radiating out to other parts of the motorcycle.

Before applying the ceramic coating, we are going to use a solvent to remove grease, oil, and other contaminants that would interfere with the bonding process of the spray-on coating. We will be applying the coating in multiple coats. First, a light base coat, then two more increasingly heavier coats, letting the coating set between each application. The directions for our ceramic coating suggest waiting 10 minutes between each coat, and waiting one hour before moving the headers after the final coat.

A nice feature on our spray can is an easy press applicator tip that requires less pressure and effort to maintain a spray stream. This results in a claimed 50% less finger fatigue, and is very noticeable (Ha, ha. -Ed)

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Hello everyone, this is Paul from IPM with another video update on Project Corona, 2003 Suzuki GSX-R600. In previous updates we have stripped down the motorcycle, swapped out the broken frame, installed new Marzocchi front forks with an Andreani triple tree, a new rear shock from Bitubo, obtained new tires, and cleaned off most of the dirt and grime. In this video, I will be reinstalling the rear sub-frame, furthering our progress towards a proper ride-able motorcycle, with serious style and performance.

The rear cowling and fender under-tray were heavily damaged and won’t be installed in this video. To begin, we are going to put the sub-frame in place, then take out the bolts to add thread locking compound before reinstalling the bolt to the correct torque.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price until supplies last.

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The next step in reassembling the GSX-R 600 was to replace the damaged radiator, using the good one from the same donor bike that donated its frame to Project Corona’s rebuild.

Swapping out the damaged radiator really couldn’t have been any easier, especially because none of the bodywork had been put on the bike yet. Connecting the large lower radiator hose one the right side of the bike first will allow most of the coolant to drain out in one place—hopefully into a bucket.

With the system drained, remove all the other coolant lines from the radiator. The radiator itself is mounted to the frame with mounting tabs, two on the top and one on the bottom. The lower mounting tab on the original radiator had been broken off, but the mounting hardware and rubber bushing were still attached to the frame, so we were able to reuse all the mounting hardware.

With the new radiator bolted back in place, it was time to connect all the coolant lines again. Project Corona’s coolant lines were all in good shape, but you have any doubt, it’s a lot easier to replace the hoses now than after you put everything back together only to find a leak.

Once all the clamps were back in place, all we had to do was carefully fill the system back up with coolant. I prefer the pre-diluted coolant, because it’s made using distilled water, and won’t cause deposits in the engine that could be left by regular tap water.

Since Project Corona isn’t in running condition right now, all we could do was fill the system to the top. But once the bike is running again, we’ll run the bike with the cooling system opened to allow any air bubbles trapped in the system to escape.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price until supplies last.

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Hey, what’s going on guys? For today’s update to our Project Corona, we bolted the Marzocchi forks into our triple tree.

We first had to jack up the rear swingarm with a stand and raise our jack up as well. Check out our progress.

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Hey, what’s going on everyone? Looks like we pick up some steam on Project Corona. Which is a good thing. Projects have a tendency to halt altogether. Anyways, check out a potential new direction this Gsxr600 has taken.

Streetfighter? Maybe. Why not? But, we’ll see.

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Eager to finish Project Corona before the summer riding season ends, we have a new update on the status of the Suzuki GSX-R600. Today, we are installing a fully adjustable rear shock from Bitubo.

With a stylish red coil spring adding pizzazz and contrast to the yellow fairings, the Bitubo fully adjustable rear shock will make a great addition to Project Corona, as well as improving the riding characteristics.

Installation of the Bitubo rear shock begins with connecting the mounting hardware. In the past updates, the swing arm was installed and we utilized the newer adjustable doglegs from Project Corona. All that is left now is to attach the upper mount for the rear shock before sliding the shock into place.

After applying grease to preserve the longevity of the bolts, we added thread locking compound and torqued the nuts to specification. We do not want our new shock to fall off after the first bump!

Future updates will include reinstalling the rear wheel, with a fresh new tire and working on the front end, the controls, and even the fairings.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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Hey, what’s going on guys? It’s as the title says; we installed a new tire on the rear wheel of Project Corona. Yes, the wheel has a slight dent but we don’t see that as being detrimental to the ride.

The Pirelli was installed and the wheel balanced at a local shop but due to the horrible experience, we won’t pimp the place this time.

Customer service at the service department was horribly slow. Then the owner insults us by calling us cheap because we initially wanted to use an old tire we brought along. Could have been a joke but I seriously doubt it.

Long story short, two hours, two bills and two trips later, we got our wheel back.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

Hey guys, Graham here with an update on the reconstruction of our Project Corona Suzuki.

As you can see in the beginning part of the video, Project Corona looks much more like a pile of parts than a motorcycle.

But finally, we’ve made some tangible progress. Our first attempt at getting the Suziki’s engine in our replacement frame had to be put on hold while we removed a sheared-off engine mount bolt. Fortunately, the second time around everything went a bit more smoothly.

All we had to do was lift our replacement frame over the engine, thread all the wiring and cables up through the frame, and bolt everything together…if it sounds easy, that’s because it is.

With the engine finally mounted in the frame, we could begin turning our pile of parts back into a sportbike, starting with installing the swing arm. Like the frame, installing this critical piece of the motorcycle was easy: One long bolt simple runs through one side of the frame, through the pivot point of the swing arm, and out the other side of the frame, where it is secured by a very large nut. Do, however, make sure to have the correct enormous socket required to properly tighten said nut, as the thought the swing arm coming loose while on the road is not a happy one.

We did discover one little bonus while we were pulling Project Corona apart—a nice set of aftermarket lowering links. With no manufacturer’s mark, we couldn’t tell where they came from, but the links felt sturdy and looked visibly stronger than the stock pieces. For now, we kept the bike set to the stock ride height while we reassemble it, but it’s nice to know we can go lower in the future should we so choose.

True, just a frame and swing arm don’t make a motorcycle, but at least the pile of parts is starting to shrink, and a motorcycle starting to form in its place.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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Hey, what’s going on guys? Today’s post is brought to you by the folks at Parkers Hog Roast. If you are interested in a hog roast hire for weddings, birthdays and special events, and are in the UK, check them out. They employ fully qualified chefs, serve free range pork, and offer delicious hog roast catering for all events.

Anyways, welcome to another segment of Project Corona. So we were finally able to source another 01-03 Suzuki Gsxr600 frame and swingarm in the stock condition. No polished look or chrome for me folks. Check out the video below as we swap the the cracked frame for the OEM one.

Once we get the engine in the new frame, the rest should bolt of quickly. See you next time.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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Hey guys, Graham here with an update for our XT 600 project.

I’ll start this one with a confession—I’m not from the Bay Area. As a result, it’s not unheard of for me to get completely lost, especially once I’m off the beaten path. Of course, most of the Bay’s best motorcycling roads are off the beaten path, so this my lack of navigational ability was limiting my ability to go out and find great rides.

Enduros like our trusty old Yamaha are ideal for covering distance in the back-country, so the XT was the logical choice to equip with GPS navigation.

Mounting the GPS unit was easy, thanks to the RAM mounting system that we used. Basically a series of mounted rubber balls and clamping arms, the RAM system allows for quick adjustment of the angle and location of the GPS unit, making it easy to adapt for riders of different heights. It’s also easy to simply unclamp the unit and take it off the bike—both for security, and to keep the unit out of the weather.

We chose to mount the GPS on handlebars to the right of center, which allows for easy viewing while riding without obscuring too much of the instruments, but the unit could just as easily have been mounted high in the center of the bars for a Dakar-style setup. The RAM mounts easily connect to the handlebars using a stainless steel u-bolt.

We used an older Garmin GPS unit, which still works great but is seriously lacking in the battery life department. So in order for our new setup to be functional, we had to wire in a 12 volt, cigarette lighter-style plug to power everything. We connected the plug directly to the battery, so it works even when the bike isn’t running. The plug, available for under ten bucks at any auto parts store, was easily mounted on the left side of the frame, out of the way of the rider’s legs.

With the whole system mounted up and operational, I took the bike on a 4-hour ride along roads I’d never ridden before. Everything worked excellently, not only did the Garmin keep me pointed in the right direction (and show me the way home), it can also be used to show upcoming bends in the road so that tight hairpin turn won’t come as a nasty surprise. A word of caution though—it’s easy to spend too much time looking down that the GPS, instead of looking down the road like you should be.

In the case of our XT, adding GPS is probably the best upgrade we’ve made yet, simply because it adds so much practicality to the motorcycle—and with gas prices as high as they are, more everday usability out of a motorcycle is always welcome.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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Hey guys, Graham here with another update for the trusty old Yamaha XT 600.

For all the upgrades and adjustments we’ve made on this bike, there was still one thing everyone noticed first: the previous owner’s duct tape seat cover. So finally, after a couple days of heavy rain left the seat feeling spongier than ever, we decided to do something about it.

While most automotive upholstery shops will be happy to take your money and recover your seat for you, it’s a pretty straightforward job to do yourself. Quotes to have the seat recovered were at least 100 dollars, and when all was said and done, we spent no more than 30 bucks and a couple of hours.

The video covers the step by step of replacing the cover, but that’s only half the story. The work really started by stripping off first the duct tape, and then the tattered remnants of the original, red seat cover. This required pulling all the old staples out from the seat pan—not hard, but make sure your tetanus shot is up to date!

The foam seat cushion had soaked up water like the sponge that it is, it took three days of drying in the sun before we could work with it.

Unfortunately, because the duct tape had stuck directly to the foam seat cushion in places, the cushion itself needed a little TLC. To repair the damaged areas of the cushion—and to build a little height into the front of the seat—we used a spray adhesive to attach extra foam. The foam was then shaped down using razor blades and a grinder.

The vinyl in we used was from a fabric store, but Corbin and others also offer motorcycle-specific fabrics if there’s a particular style you’re going for.

Result? A great looking new seat for much less than what the pros charge, and the matte black of the new cover looks way better than all that old duct tape did.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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Hey what’s going on guys? Looks like we’ve got Suzuki fever here at IPM. First we got the 2011 Gsxr1000 and now we are working on this 2003 Corona Edition Gsxr600 (yes, my first superbike, see past staff bikes section) project.

As you’ll see in the video in a bit, the bike was completely trashed. It may look okay from afar but every single piece on this once find machine is damage. Of course, that won’t stop us from salvaging what we can but, I don’t think I’ll be keep the speaker installed inside the fairing, or the whole chrome look. Sorry folks, too ghetto for me.

So, we’ve got a few rebuild options here: go with what sponsors provide, do the whole Yoshimura build or stick with the Corona Alstare scheme. After checking out the sponsors section on Alstare’s website, I think that will be our best bet.

Stay tuned for more updates.

Stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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Graham here, with one more upgrade for our trusty old Yamaha XT600.

The XT’s headlight was working great and provided a surprising amount of light for night riding. But the original fairing that surrounded the headlight was another casualty of our little crashing incident.

We could have simply sourced another OEM piece, but here at IPM, we never miss a chance to upgrade from a stock part. We got a great deal on a lightly used aftermarket headlight assembly, thanks to Dante of Scuderia in San Francisco.

Italian company UFO Plast makes the new-to-us assembly. Our model, the Oregon, also features integrated turn signals as well, but because the stock turn signals are required to make the lights actually flash, we opted to run both the stock signals and the new integrated UFO ones. As an added bonus, keeping the wide-set, stock blinkers keeps the bike compliant with California law.

Mounting the assembly on the front of the XT600 was a snap, thanks to the flexibility of the UFO piece and the variety of mounting holes and brackets on the front of the motorcycle. We chose to bolt the headlight in place, but the assembly also comes with heavy-duty rubber straps to mount the headlight directly to the forks if needed.

The wiring was the only tricky part. For now, we just used regular automotive style spade terminals to adapt the Yamaha’s wiring to the new headlight’s a simple install, but make sure to check and double check your wiring, since the bike’s wire colors won’t necessarily correspond to those of the new headlight.

Our homebrew wiring system works perfectly, but in the near future we’ll upgrade to an automotive-style, five-wire connector, so that we’ll only have one thing to unplug if we need to remove the headlight.

On the road, the Oregon headlight works just about as well as the stock one’s, impressive considering how much smaller it is. The light is definitely brighter than stock, but the trade off is a little less dispersion than the larger original unit offered.

But looks wise, it’s a huge improvement. The stock, square headlight screamed “look, I’m from the 80s” but the much sleeker UFO unit helps to bring a more modern look to the whole bike, especially when coupled with our sleeker, Renthal handlebars.

That wraps it up for this update, but stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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Hey guys, Graham here with another update on our project XT 600. Our trusty old Yamaha’s handlebars were already a little on the worn side, with some surface rust and paint flaking off, but they were still straight and doing their job.

Then I dumped the bike.

The bike rode home, but an inspection the next day revealed that the flimsy, stock handlebar mounts had been bent and the bars were no longer straight. As far as crash damage goes, though, it could have been a lot worse—but that’s why I love enduros.

We could have simply replaced the stock handlebar mounts with oem parts, but since this bike is used off road and will probably end up being dumped again, we chose to upgrade to stronger, oversize mounts from ProTaper. Not only will they not bend in a crash, but they also allow the use of a
thicker handlebar.

Since the ProTaper mounts are oversize, we needed to bore out the mounting holes on the triple tree using a drill to get the new mounts to bolt up—not hard, but drilling through an inch of steel is not for the impatient.

With the ProTaper mounts in place, all that was needed was a new set of handlebars to finish everything off. Since the new mounts are made for a 1 1/8” bar, we opted for a Fatbar from Renthal. Renthal offers the bar in a variety of colors to match pretty much any look you’ve got going—we went for a subtle charcoal-grey. The bars are very high quality, with an excellent finish and a knurled on the left side to keep the grip in place.

Mounting the bars was a snap, as all the XT’s controls simply clamp on. Riding wise, the new bars are a little lower and wider than stock, which helps to give the bike a sportier feel and more responsive handling through the turns. The bars are still high enough that even an over-six-footer like myself doesn’t need to bend forward, so the riding position is still comfortable enough to commute on every day.

The only problem? The shiny new bars and mounts make the rest of the controls look old! Keep it tuned here for more updates on our XT and all our other projects.

Be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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Hi guys, Graham here with an update on our Project XT 600.

As you saw in our first installment, the old Yamaha’s chain was dangerously worn and loose. As long as we were going to be getting our hands dirty and replacing the chain, it seemed foolish not to address the worn sprockets at the same time.

Sunstar, the largest OEM sprocket manufacturer, hooked us up with a couple of new sprockets to go with our chain, and we added a couple of new rollers from MSR to make the whole system good as new again. Since the bike sees a lot of time doing the daily commute, we opted to stick to the stock gearing, which is a decent compromise between bottom end grunt and decent highway manners.

On an old bike like our XT, it can be tempting to try and save a few bucks by just slapping a new chain on the old sprockets, but it’s really a false economy. Using a new chain with old and worn gears like our Yamaha had will shorten the life of the chain.

As you can see in the video, everything is pretty straightforward, although replacing the sprockets does necessitate removing the rear wheel. Do, however, make sure that the new chain is pressed together properly using a chain press tool, a chain coming apart at highway speeds is not something to take lightly. Also, spend a few cents on new cotter pins wherever they’re needed, it’s cheap insurance.

Out of the garage and on the road, the XT felt like a whole new bike. The chain, rollers and sprockets all helped to clean up all the slop in the drivetrain. Acceleration, upshifts and downshifts were all noticeably smoother.

That’s it for now, but stay tuned for more updates, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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Hey guys, Graham here with the newest addition to Inline Performance Magazine’s project bike stable.

We picked up this 1988 Yamaha XT 600 for a mere 600 dollars. While it’s had a hard life and seen plenty of miles, we plan fixing it up to be a reliable ride that’s just as comfortable bombing around the city streets as it is tearing up the fire roads. Check it out.

Despite being old and a bit dated, the Yamaha still has some solid fundamentals. The 595cc single cylinder engine is fed by a dual carb set up and puts out 44hp at 6500rpm, which combined with the 340lb wet weight offers more than enough grunt around town. While the bike tops out at a relatively mild 100mph, the low-rpm torque from the big thumper pulls the bike out of the hole with surprising authority.

On our bike, we’ll be taking care of some deferred maintenance first, like replacing the worn out chain and damaged rollers, changing the oil, and giving the bike a thorough cleaning so that we know exactly what we’re working with.

Then we’ll get to the fun stuff, replacing the missing bodywork, getting the seat reupholstered, and maybe giving the whole thing a quick paintjob. If we can find one, a larger capacity would be a great addition—the stock 2.9-gallon metal tank offers only about a 100-mile range before hitting the reserve.

Down the road when funds allow, we’ll look into street tires and perhaps even a motard-style conversion.

Stay tuned for more updates as we take this low-budget beater and bring her back to life, and be sure to order your copy of the 2011 print edition of Inline Performance Magazine HERE at the pre-order price for a limited time.

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Hi guys, Paul here again. Today, we will be working on Project ShadowBlade. Alex was not happy with the way the frame came out. He went so far as to call the painter “not so reputable.” We will leave it at that.

We decided to stripe the paint from the frame down to the bare aluminum. Alex decided on using paint stripper, but I had to take over half way and use a sand to better results. Check it out.

Oh, and don’t mind the beer commercial in the middle of the video. We have bills to pay, you know?

Be sure to check out CBR Boards for more Honda fun. Stay tuned for more updates!

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Hi guys! It’s Paul here with my turn on Project Shadowblade. Today, we finally got the Cbr frame back from the painters. An unfortunate delay was caused by someone dripping paint thinner on part of the frame and burned off some of the paint. Therefore, we had to get the frame repainted. Check out the video.

As you saw from our short video, we went with Honda Accord silver to keep with the Honda family theme. Next up, we’ll be sourcing an engine from a junk yard, eBay or Craigslist. Let us know if you happen across a good deal!

As always, be sure to check out CBR Boards for more Honda Cbr fun! Stay tuned!

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Please Note: if I’ve said it once, I’ve said it a hundred times. Get a bud to help you on this. You can’t possibly have enough hands.

First, take stock of your turn signal situation. Are they mounted to the saddlebag brackets? If not, high five! A couple monkeys could this job in five minutes, so I won’t bother telling you how. If they are mounted to the saddlebag brackets, take a stiff drink. Then remove the VT750′s seat and uncouple the turn signals and the rear brake light.

Soon, you’ll need to remove the rear fender so you can proceed to rewiring your turn signals to their original hardpoints. This process involves the wiring for your taillight, too. Alternatively you could just pull off the signals, cut the wires and install new couplings. Seriously, send a diagram to andrew@inlineperformancemag.com to show me how.

Next, we remove the four bolts that connect the saddlebag brackets, frame, and fender (and sissy bar). Try not to lose all the bolts’ washers in the process.

Flip the fender and work the wiring out of the fender’s frame so that you can then remove the wiring from the saddlebag brackets, after you’ve pulled off the turn signals. Go ahead and reattach the turn signals to the fender’s hardpoints, and work all that wiring back through the fender’s frame. You may want to test your signals and taillight before you do this (read: Murphy’s Law).

Reattach the fender (and sissy bar, if you have one) to the motorcycle frame. Here’s where your bud – or spare monkey – comes in handy, because it’s hard to line up that fender, the frame, and those stupid tiny washers by yourself. Everything fits together very snugly, and on top of that, you don’t want to scratch the fender’s fine paint job.

Make sure everything works, then reattach the seat. Congratulations! You now know the back end of your Shadow like only an owner should. And you’ll be sure to bring some help. Did I mention bringing help? It’s probably a good idea to have some help.

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