Gilles Tooling was kind enough to send us a pair of their rearsets. When I opened the box, I was amazed. The craftsmanship and design was impeccable. The rearsets felt solid and sturdy, yet it didn’t feel heavy. I couldn’t wait to install them on my Triumph Street Triple.

We at IPM want to give a big thank you to the folks at Gilles Tooling for sending us these beautiful rearsets.

Visit them at www.gillestooling.com and pick up a pair. You won’t be disappointed!

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So we went to bolt up the tank to the frame and found that the holes didn’t line up. The culprit was a bent and mangled tank mount bracket. The son of a gun lied about it being in perfect condition. @$$h01e!!! So anyways, we made a call to Triumph and everything was kosher.

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Maintenance Tips

* Pay rapt attention to maintenance schedule and torque specifications.

* Every time you change the oil take the time to remove, disassemble, and clean the cam chain tensioner. Upon reassembling the cam chain tensioner liberally coat the internal parts with Silkolene Pro RG2 Synthetic before refitting the tensioner to the engine case. The details of the procedure I follow may be found via this link.

* Drill out the spot weld on the right hand ignition coil bracket so that you can easily remove the bracket with the coil when inspecting the valve clearance. Removal of the bracket will not only provide additional working clearance but will also enable one to remove the cylinder head cover without the draining and removal of the radiator.

* Set the valve clearance using the classic 2 feeler gauge method and a Kawasaki valve clearance tool. Use .004 inch (.102 mm) as a “go” and .005″ (.127 mm) as a “no-go” for intake valve clearance; .005 inch (.127 mm) as a “go” and .006″ (.152 mm) as a “no-go” for exhaust valve clearance.

Recommended Tools

* Good quality basic Metric mechanic’s tool set: (Sears Craftsman, Span-on, etc.)

* 1/2″ drive 22mm socket (for the front axle)

* 1/2″ drive 24mm socket (for the rear axle)

* 1/4″ socket drive to 1/4″ hex-head screwdriver bit adapter

* 1/4″ drive universal joint

* #2 and #3 Phillips 1/4″ hex-head screw driver bits

* 3 mm, 4mm, 6 mm, 8 mm Allen 1/4″ drive hex-head bits

* A “shorty” #2 Phillips screwdriver (for synchronizing the carburetors and removing/refitting the forward mounting screw on the belly pan with no interference from the front fender))

* Feeler gauge with metric measurements (valve clearance using .004 inch (.102 mm), .005″ (.127 mm), and .006″ (.152 mm); I also have a metric feeler gauge).

* Torque wrenches. (I have three: a 0-75 ft-lbs deflection bar torque wrench, a 0-150 ft-lbs deflection bar torque wrench, and a 25 to 250 inch-lbs ratcheting torque wrench)

* Kawasaki Ninja 250R (GPZ 250R) Motorcycle Service Manual

* Kawasaki Ninja 250R (GPX 250R) Motorcycle Service Manual Supplement

* Kawasaki valve adjustment tool

* Motion Pro carburetor synchronizer

* A jack for lifting the bike by the motor (if you plan to change your own tires)

Maintenance on a 250 is easy!!!

Here is a preview of my new leather riding jacket. Check it out in Essential Stuff!

Check out my new jacket from Dainese. I really like the design of this Stripes leather jacket in tobacco color. I can totally wear this out for a night on the town! This is from their 2008 collection. Special thanks to Dainese!

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We test the Crystal-Glo Motorcycle Polish, and we like what we see! Check out the results on the Triumph Street Triple.

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